Archive for May, 2013

More with Pace da Poggio Etrusco Extra Virgin Olive Oil


Fava-Pea-Ricotta-Crostini


The baby vegetables are in the Farmer’s Markets. The herb garden is planted, and tiny peas in their pods have made an appearance. My mint plants are already giving forth, their new leaves packed with fresh flavor. Spring has arrived, and with it have come the fava beans.


Travails with Fave or Size Does Matter


Vicia-Faba



Preparing fave (FAH-vay, plural of fava) is a labor or love, or so some people say. The preparation of this member of the Fabaceae (bean family) is a point of great contention among the cooking community and for a time, a source of plunging self-esteem for me. To peel or not to peel? That is the question. The Great Fava Bean Debate of 2013 rages on. For years I labored (or not, depending on one’s point of view) in blissful ignorance of the aforementioned debate, happily zipping open the fava pods, removing the tiny beans from their downy resting spots and eating them. For me there was no third step. You know the one, the part where you peel the beans.

 

 

In the garden or at the market I selected firm, bright green pods, free of marks or blemishes. Patient harvesting or careful shopping rewarded me with tiny beans, sweet and tender, about the size of my little fingernail. I never bothered with the larger beans, having always thought them better suited to the compost heap than a diner’s stomach.

 

 

However there came a point at which I realized that everyone, food writers and friends alike, even food writing friends, was talking about peeling the fave. A terrible unease set in, the kind of self-doubt in which I specialize. Could I possibly be so rustica, so out of touch with civilized culinary technique? It seemed that everyone peeled those little beans before consuming them, whether raw or cooked. Then one day just a few weeks ago I was rescued from the ignominy of bean preparation inadequacy by none other than food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins. She came down on the side of not to peel. Despite some formidable opposition, chief among them Paula Wolfert, Nancy stuck to her guns. There is no need to peel, she declared. It is simply a matter of knowing how to pick fave, and you should pick them young. Thanks, Nancy. A girl needs her heroes. Read more… »

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Eggplant with Roasted Tomatoes, Baked Ricotta and Herbs


Eggplant-Roasted-Tomatoes-Ricotta


Man has cultivated the olive tree for thousands of years. The Roman Empire depended on olive oil for everything from perfumes and personal hygiene to cooking and lighting.


amphorae

Courtesy: Nacional Arqueològic de Tarragona (Dottsa Pilar Sada) David Williams

Rome’s oil came from the far flung parts of the Empire, and the terra cotta containers that held it, known as amphorae, were inscribed with tituli picti, markings that certified the oil’s place of origin, owner, weight and other particulars. The Romans knew where their oil came from and you should too. How can the average consumer, inexpert at discerning the quality of oil he or she is purchasing, get good oil? I have said it before. Either know your grower or know your seller. Fortunately for me, I know both. Among a box of oils I received for review from Olio2go, one of the country’s largest sellers of Italian extra virgin olive oil was a tin of liquid gold, Pace da Poggio Etrusco Extra Virgin Olive Oil made by Pamela Sheldon Johns.



Pamela is a well known food writer, cookbook author, and cooking teacher. With her husband, artist Johnny Johns she operates Poggio Etrusco bed and breakfast and working farm in Montepulciano, Tuscany. On her organic certified farm property she grows the Moraiolo, Leccino, Correggiolo, and Pendolino olives that go into the oil. In November it is time for la raccolta delle olive, the olive harvest, when Pamela, her family and crew, and even guests, pick the fruit (yes, olives are fruit) entirely by hand. The careful harvesting, free of rakes and machines, assures that the fruit reaches the frantoio, the olive pressing mill, unbruised and in good condition, resulting in a pure, fresh tasting oil. Pamela’s hands on approach to the manufacture of her oil is a mixture of science, hard work, and respect for tradition and the earth. Read more… »

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