Archive for August, 2013

Blackberry-Sangiovese Sorbetto

Posted August 31, 2013 By Adri


Blackberry Sangiovese Sorbeto


Smart ScoopMy new ice cream machine has rendered the process of making ice cream, gelato, sorbetto and other frozen desserts very simple. I have been making so many, I haven’t had the time to put them up for everyone to enjoy. With summer on the wane, I figured I’d better get the recipes up soon.

A couple of weeks ago I returned home from the market with several pounds of plump blackberries. Dark and heavily perfumed, the berries were so sweet and flavorful I knew they deserved more than my basic berry sorbetto treatment. I remembered a recipe I had seen for Blackberry-Sangiovese Sorbetto in Gelato! by Pamela Sheldon Johns. Read more… »

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Stracnar and Stracenate, 2 names, 2 regions, 1 pasta


It is the height of summer here in Southern California, and I’ve been busy with frozen desserts, but a family has to eat. In between grilled steaks, chops and lots of salads we enjoy pasta tossed with hearty sauces of meat, tomatoes and herbs.


Stracnar with Sausage Ragu


This dish comes from Southern Italy where the days are hot and the sun is high. The regions of Italy’s south, known collectively as the Mezzogiorno, include Abruzzo, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, Puglia, Sardinia, and Sicily. This large swath of the country has long been regarded as separate, divided linguistically and culturally from the north. Even today, over one hundred and fifty years after unification, Italians proudly proclaim their own region’s unique heritage, and enjoy the same foods as their ancestors. Read more… »

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Granita di Caffè con Panna

Posted August 21, 2013 By Adri

Espresso Granita with Whipped Cream

Espresso Granita with Whipped Cream


Dateline: Rome, August 1971

It was hot. Hot like only Rome can get in August. That’s why the Romans leave the Eternal City to us tourists. I walked toward the Colosseum and realized the asphalt was literally sinking beneath my feet. I could feel the heat of it through my shoes. Like I said Rome is hot. I decided to take a detour and grab something refreshing. I said to the waiter, “Prendo una granita di caffè, per favore.” “Con panna?” came the response. I thought a second and said, “Si, con panna.”

That interchange was almost lightning fast, and so was relief. The translation is simple, “I’ll have a Granita di caffè.” “With cream?” “Yes, with cream.” Very quickly the waiter brought me a glass of icy coffee crystals topped with softly whipped cream. I don’t know if service was always that fast or if I presented in a most precarious state. Cool and icy, with the taste of strong coffee and a kiss of sugar, it hit the spot. I felt better and continued on to Emperor Vespasian’s iconic amphitheater. Read more… »

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Lemon-Basil Sorbet with Mixed Berries

Posted August 17, 2013 By Adri


Lemon Basil Sorbet With Berries


I don’t usually spotlight recipes from magazines. This one, however from the May/June issue of La Cucina Italiana is stellar, and I want to be certain everyone sees it. Plus it features basil in a frozen dessert, a culinary combination the depths of which I am only beginning to plumb.

The Lemon-Basil Sorbet was an utter delight, astonishingly refreshing, remarkably light. The original recipe called for raspberries; aside from looking beautiful on the plate, they are a tart-sweet complement to the sorbet. Ultimately, I settled on the darker blackberries and blueberries. I found the more heavily perfumed berries a better match for the assertive basil and bright taste of lemon.

Whether you serve this as dessert or as a palate cleanser in a dinner dressed to the nines, the clean flavor of this icy sorbet will amaze everyone at your table. Serve the berries you enjoy most alongside, and do not pass this one up. Read more… »

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Basil Blueberry Swirl Gelato

Posted August 13, 2013 By Adri

Basil Blueberry Swirl Gelato


I have never been tempted by desserts with savory components. Somehow they always seemed wrong to me, so when I developed a craving for basil gelato I was surprised. Maybe it started with gorgeous peaches. Bart brought home a dozen of the most fragrant and perfectly ripe pieces of fruit I have seen all summer. My first thought was to slice the peaches, toss them in basil simple syrup and keep life easy. Then I remembered the blueberries in the refrigerator. Next, my eye drifted to my ice cream maker, and I was all in for this one.


Basil Blueberry Swirl Gelato


The basil gelato base is lightly flavored, a lovely match for the blueberry swirl. Use more basil if you must, up to 50% more, but be careful, tasting occasionally after 15 minutes to be certain the infusion does not take on a bitter edge. I was concerned that the blueberry swirl might not have the body, taste-wise, to stand up to the basil, so I added some Mandorla grappa. The bitter almond and dark cherry taste of the grappa did the trick, brightening the blueberry flavor and bringing it into tight focus. This gelato is wonderful by itself, right out of the container, but served with fresh or poached yellow peaches or nectarines, or even berries, it is a very special summertime treat indeed.


Basil Blueberry Swirl Gelato

Basil-Blueberry Swirl Gelato


Makes about 1 quart

After a few hours in the freezer, this takes on the perfect consistency, but after a longer freeze will be quite firm. If you find the gelato too firm to scoop, just leave it at room temperature for a few minutes. It will soften beautifully.

2 cups whole milk
¾ cup heavy cream
½ cup granulated sugar
4 large egg yolks
20 basil leaves, coarsely chopped
Pinch of kosher salt

1 ¼ cup blueberries
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1-2 teaspoons Nardini Mandorla Grappa

Peaches, nectarines or fresh berries to serve alongside
basil leaves for garnish

Make the basil gelato:
In a medium saucepan combine milk, cream, granulated sugar, basil, and kosher salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar has dissolved. Continue cooking until small bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Remove from the heat, cover pan and set aside to steep for twenty minutes. Strain the mixture, and return it to the pan, reheating briefly. Discard the basil.

While the mixture is heating, separate the eggs, placing the yolks in a medium heat-proof bowl, reserving the whites for another use. Whisk the egg yolks until slightly lightened. Slowly dribble half of the hot milk mixture into the beaten yolks, whisking all the while. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat. Use a silicone spatula to stir and scrape the bottom and sides of the saucepan until the mixture coats the back of the spatula, or reaches 180 degrees F. Do not boil.

Place a strainer over a medium stainless steel bowl and pour the mixture through. Set the bowl containing the gelato base over a second, larger bowl half-full of ice water to cool. Stir occasionally, being careful that no water seeps into the gelato base, until the mixture is cool. Cover and refrigerate 6 hours or overnight to chill thoroughly.

Make the Blueberry Swirl:
Place the blueberries, granulated sugar and lemon juice in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low to medium heat, crushing the berries as they soften and stirring often to prevent sticking and scorching. Cook until a silicone spatula leaves a broad trail when drawn across the bottom of the pan and mixture forms a thick sauce, about 12 to 15 minutes. Place a fine mesh strainer over a bowl. Use a spatula to press the mixture through the strainer, leaving the seeds and skins behind. Use a clean spatula to scrape the mixture that clings to the underside of the strainer into the bowl. This should yield about ¼ cup of puree. Discard seeds and skins. Add grappa to the puree, and stir to combine. Refrigerate until cold.

Make the gelato:
Pour the chilled base mixture into an ice cream/gelato maker and process according to the manufacturer’s directions.


Basil Blueberry Swirl Gelato


Add the swirl:
When gelato has finished churning, Remove the cannister from the machine and transfer one half of the gelato to a chilled storage container, smoothing the top slightly. Pour one half of the blueberry mixture atop gelato and swirl or fold gently using just a few strokes, lifting and swirling the blueberry mixture. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Stir as little as possible to retain rivulets of blueberry. Smooth the surface of the gelato. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly atop the gelato, and transfer to the freezer 4 to 6 hours to harden and cure.

Smart Scoop


Food Nerd Notes: To those of you who are wondering, yes, I finally got my fancy ice cream maker. I love it. Come on over.





Further reading:



Gelato!: Italian Ice Creams, Sorbetti, and Granite
by Pamela Sheldon Johns
Paperback: 112 pages
Publisher: Ten Speed Press (May 1, 2008)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1580089232
ISBN-13: 978-1580089234



The Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompaniments
by David Lebovitz
Paperback: 256 pages
Publisher: Ten Speed Press (May 4, 2010)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 158008219X
ISBN-13: 978-158008219



The Ciao Bella Book of Gelato and Sorbetto: Bold, Fresh Flavors to Make at Home
Publisher: Clarkson Potter (May 11, 2010)
Hardcover: 176 pages
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0307464989
ISBN-13: 978-0307464989



Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones:
90 Recipes for Making Your Own Ice Cream and Frozen Treats from Bi-Rite Creamery

Hardcover: 224 pages
Publisher: Ten Speed Press (April 17, 2012)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1607741849
ISBN-13: 978-1607741848



Making Artisan Gelato:
45 Recipes and Techniques for Crafting Flavor-Infused Gelato and Sorbet at Home

Paperback: 176 pages
Publisher: Quarry Books (January 1, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 159253418X
ISBN-13: 978-1592534180



A Passion for Ice Cream:
95 Recipes for Fabulous Desserts

by Emily Luchetti
Hardcover: 224 pages
Publisher: Chronicle Books; First Edition (April 27, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0811846024
ISBN-13: 978-0811846028



Note: You can click on any picture to see a slide show!

I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.

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On Sunday, occasionally – No. 2

Posted August 4, 2013 By Adri


August2013_1309


It’s occasional Sunday again. Put down the paper, log on to the internet and check out some of the great articles I’ve found this week. There’s plenty to keep you busy today. Enjoy! And if there is an Italian flavored site you’d like to tell me about, please do so. I am always on the lookout for new writers.


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Gareth Jones – Worth his salt



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The classic ravioli of the isle of Capri – Aglio Olio e Peperoncino



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Beautiful Baked Scallops – Italy on My Mind



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A woman, a pizza and a baking steel – Alexandra’s Kitchen



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Taralli dolci – Memorie di Angelina



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Ciambellini from guest blogger Ally – Dinner in Venice


I have no affiliation with any product, manufacturer, or site mentioned in this article.


Note: You can click on any picture for a slide show!

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